𝘿𝙤𝙢𝙞𝙣𝙞𝙤 𝙙𝙚 𝘾𝙖𝙡𝙤𝙜𝙞́𝙖, 𝙩𝙝𝙚 𝙥𝙧𝙤𝙟𝙚𝙘𝙩 𝙤𝙛 𝙅𝙤𝙨𝙚́ 𝙈𝙖𝙣𝙪𝙚𝙡 𝙋𝙚́𝙧𝙚𝙯 𝙊𝙫𝙚𝙟𝙖𝙨, 𝙘𝙤𝙣𝙩𝙞𝙣𝙪𝙚𝙨 𝙩𝙤 𝙖𝙘𝙘𝙪𝙢𝙪𝙡𝙖𝙩𝙚 𝙧𝙚𝙘𝙤𝙜𝙣𝙞𝙩𝙞𝙤𝙣. 𝙃𝙞𝙨 𝙢𝙚𝙩𝙝𝙤𝙙 𝙖𝙣𝙙 𝙝𝙞𝙨 𝙖𝙪𝙩𝙝𝙤𝙧-𝙙𝙧𝙞𝙫𝙚𝙣 𝙬𝙞𝙣𝙚𝙧𝙮—𝙫𝙚𝙧𝙮 𝙁𝙧𝙚𝙣𝙘𝙝, 𝙫𝙚𝙧𝙮 𝙗𝙤𝙪𝙩𝙞𝙦𝙪𝙚—𝙝𝙖𝙫𝙚 𝙘𝙝𝙖𝙣𝙜𝙚𝙙 𝙢𝙖𝙣𝙮 𝙘𝙡𝙞𝙘𝙝𝙚́𝙨 𝙬𝙞𝙩𝙝𝙞𝙣 𝙩𝙝𝙚 𝘿𝙚𝙣𝙤𝙢𝙞𝙣𝙖𝙩𝙞𝙤𝙣 𝙤𝙛 𝙊𝙧𝙞𝙜𝙞𝙣.
Text by JAVIER OLIVARES LEÓN
He has just returned from Valencia, where he received an award as Winemaker of the Year for his Calogía Cuvée S. He also won it in 2023 and 2018, one year after being named Winemaker of the Year. “What I value most is that people choose my wines,” he acknowledges. Precision, respect for the land, and dedication to quality sum up Pérez Ovejas’ project.
How was your 36th harvest?
It began on September 22, one of the earliest I can remember. Ripening was advanced: there were heavy rains in winter and spring, and a very dry summer. We lost 20% of production due to mildew (a fungus), but quality was not affected. These years demand precise decisions.
What did people at home say when you decided to create a winery after turning 50?
It was a challenge, but my family supported me. Silvia, my wife, was clear that with our own vineyards and a manageable scale, the project would have clarity and credibility. I wanted to make wines with identity, far removed from traditional rigidity.
How has the project evolved since 2019?
The reception was swift. From the very beginning, the market trusted us. To achieve this, we take care of every detail: hand selection, demanding protocols, and cold maceration to obtain very fine tannins.
“Only 3,000 bottles of Cuvée S are produced: one per vine, which represents one and a half kilos per plant.”
All the vineyards are located at altitude, between 820 and 850 meters. In the background, presiding over the landscape, is the silhouette of the iconic Cuesta Manvirgo, near Roa and Pedrosa de Duero.
How do you manage production and the market?
Across the three references, we produce around 50,000 bottles per year. We prioritize the international market, which represents 30%. In Spain, we are increasingly present in specialty shops and restaurants.
Do you work with parcel-by-parcel vinification?
Yes. Each plot is vinified separately. Basically, there are three vineyards: Doble M comes from La Loma, in Roa. Dominio de Calogía, as such, is made from vineyards bordering the winery. Cuvée S comes from a small parcel in Pedrosa, one and a half hectares. Only 3,000 bottles are produced—one per vine, which represents one and a half kilos per plant.
How do you manage the use of oak?
We work with 314 French oak barrels and renew one third every year. I seek balance: the wood should never dominate the wine.
Have you ever thought about experimenting with varieties other than Tinta Fina?
No. It would distort the style. I want to remain faithful to Calogía’s identity.
What is your first memory of the vineyard as something of your own?
When my father allowed me to manage my first plot (vineyard) in Ribera del Duero. I was about 14 years old. Today that vineyard continues to supply grapes for Calogía and, fortunately, I still count on my father—his support and trust.
What do you open a bottle of Calogía with?
With simplicity: a fried egg, potatoes, good ham, and aged cheese. In addition to meat, it pairs well with hake or wild turbot. Some restaurants specializing in fish even offer Calogía on their wine lists.
How is the third generation coming along?
I would like my children to join after completing their studies and working elsewhere. It would be ideal to maintain the family character. Manuela studies Business Administration and Advertising, and Mauro studies Oenology.
Will there be more Calogía labels?
No. The goal is to maintain the philosophy and produce wines that belong to the Spanish and global elite.
