๐ฟ๐ค๐ข๐๐ฃ๐๐ค ๐๐ ๐พ๐๐ก๐ค๐๐ฬ๐, ๐ฉ๐๐ ๐ฅ๐ง๐ค๐๐๐๐ฉ ๐ค๐ ๐ ๐ค๐จ๐ฬ ๐๐๐ฃ๐ช๐๐ก ๐๐ฬ๐ง๐๐ฏ ๐๐ซ๐๐๐๐จ, ๐๐ค๐ฃ๐ฉ๐๐ฃ๐ช๐๐จ ๐ฉ๐ค ๐๐๐๐ช๐ข๐ช๐ก๐๐ฉ๐ ๐ง๐๐๐ค๐๐ฃ๐๐ฉ๐๐ค๐ฃ. ๐๐๐จ ๐ข๐๐ฉ๐๐ค๐ ๐๐ฃ๐ ๐๐๐จ ๐๐ช๐ฉ๐๐ค๐ง-๐๐ง๐๐ซ๐๐ฃ ๐ฌ๐๐ฃ๐๐ง๐ฎโ๐ซ๐๐ง๐ฎ ๐๐ง๐๐ฃ๐๐, ๐ซ๐๐ง๐ฎ ๐๐ค๐ช๐ฉ๐๐ฆ๐ช๐โ๐๐๐ซ๐ ๐๐๐๐ฃ๐๐๐ ๐ข๐๐ฃ๐ฎ ๐๐ก๐๐๐๐ฬ๐จ ๐ฌ๐๐ฉ๐๐๐ฃ ๐ฉ๐๐ ๐ฟ๐๐ฃ๐ค๐ข๐๐ฃ๐๐ฉ๐๐ค๐ฃ ๐ค๐ ๐๐ง๐๐๐๐ฃ.
Text by JAVIER OLIVARES LEรN
He has just returned from Valencia, where he received an award as Winemaker of the Year for his Calogรญa Cuvรฉe S. He also won it in 2023 and 2018, one year after being named Winemaker of the Year. โWhat I value most is that people choose my wines,โ he acknowledges. Precision, respect for the land, and dedication to quality sum up Pรฉrez Ovejasโ project.
How was your 36th harvest?
It began on September 22, one of the earliest I can remember. Ripening was advanced: there were heavy rains in winter and spring, and a very dry summer. We lost 20% of production due to mildew (a fungus), but quality was not affected. These years demand precise decisions.
What did people at home say when you decided to create a winery after turning 50?
It was a challenge, but my family supported me. Silvia, my wife, was clear that with our own vineyards and a manageable scale, the project would have clarity and credibility. I wanted to make wines with identity, far removed from traditional rigidity.
How has the project evolved since 2019?
The reception was swift. From the very beginning, the market trusted us. To achieve this, we take care of every detail: hand selection, demanding protocols, and cold maceration to obtain very fine tannins.
โOnly 3,000 bottles of Cuvรฉe S are produced: one per vine, which represents one and a half kilos per plant.โ
All the vineyards are located at altitude, between 820 and 850 meters. In the background, presiding over the landscape, is the silhouette of the iconic Cuesta Manvirgo, near Roa and Pedrosa de Duero.
How do you manage production and the market?
Across the three references, we produce around 50,000 bottles per year. We prioritize the international market, which represents 30%. In Spain, we are increasingly present in specialty shops and restaurants.
Do you work with parcel-by-parcel vinification?
Yes. Each plot is vinified separately. Basically, there are three vineyards: Doble M comes from La Loma, in Roa. Dominio de Calogรญa, as such, is made from vineyards bordering the winery. Cuvรฉe S comes from a small parcel in Pedrosa, one and a half hectares. Only 3,000 bottles are producedโone per vine, which represents one and a half kilos per plant.
How do you manage the use of oak?
We work with 314 French oak barrels and renew one third every year. I seek balance: the wood should never dominate the wine.
Have you ever thought about experimenting with varieties other than Tinta Fina?
No. It would distort the style. I want to remain faithful to Calogรญaโs identity.
What is your first memory of the vineyard as something of your own?
When my father allowed me to manage my first plot (vineyard) in Ribera del Duero. I was about 14 years old. Today that vineyard continues to supply grapes for Calogรญa and, fortunately, I still count on my fatherโhis support and trust.
What do you open a bottle of Calogรญa with?
With simplicity: a fried egg, potatoes, good ham, and aged cheese. In addition to meat, it pairs well with hake or wild turbot. Some restaurants specializing in fish even offer Calogรญa on their wine lists.
How is the third generation coming along?
I would like my children to join after completing their studies and working elsewhere. It would be ideal to maintain the family character. Manuela studies Business Administration and Advertising, and Mauro studies Oenology.
Will there be more Calogรญa labels?
No. The goal is to maintain the philosophy and produce wines that belong to the Spanish and global elite.